Level 2/3 Stage 1
On Line
Positive Reflexes in the 7 Games
FreeStyle Riding
Positive Reflexes 7 Games on the horse’s back
Positive Reflexes
Learning how to do everything with 4 ounces or less, and without hesitation.
If your horse was a car, how would you rate the brakes… the accelerator… the steering to the left… the steering to the right… its straightness when you let go of the wheel?
Most of us are used to driving cars that travel straight, go and stop well and have even steering for turning and we probably think their okay. But a race car driver might get in the car and have a totally different view. He knows what a formula one car feels like, its probably as close to perfect as a vehicle can get. If anything is out of balance it is a potentially a life or death situation for the driver so he is very particular about these details. Any imperfections are going to be very obvious to this savvy race car driver, but they might not be obvious to you because you’ve experienced nothing better.
It’s the same thing with a horseman. A horseman is very sensitive to when a horse is out of balance in his feel and response time. Because he knows how a horse could and should feel, he is especially sensitive to when a horse does not respond as it should. He also knows the risks involved the further out of balance it is, or the performance compromise if ever one of those elements is not right.
Timing is everything
How your horse responds to the touch is a direct result of your feel and timing. For a horse to become responsive to a soft touch you need to be able to build pressure slowly and release that pressure very quickly the instant the horse responds or decides to respond. This is called “timing”. The more you can start timing things to your horse’s thought, the softer your horse will become. Every time you are slow to release, the horse will get a little dull because he has not been able to realise that the moment he does the right thing he gains release. It is the release that teaches the horse to be soft and to respond quickly, its called positive reinforcement.
The 4 phases – Becoming more effective in the 7 Games
In Level 1 you learned that four phases is the polite and fairest way to ask a horse to respond. A horse that does not have positive reflexes is slow to respond and usually waits until phase 3 to do it.
Now it’s time to take a new consciousness around your phases. If you don’t start with phase one and you avoid reaching phase 4, your horse will not have positive reflexes. We’ll look at each of the 7 Games and the success tips important for gaining positive reflexes.
Up until now, you’ve been playing the 7 Games. Now its time to win them! And the way you win them is to get positive reflexes and left brain stability form your horse.
The Friendly Game
While you are not really asking for a yield, you are asking for a response in the form of relaxation. A positive reflex in the Friendly Game would be that the instant you rub a horse (like after the Porcupine Game) he will stop. The instant you let your life down and smile in any of the active games… he will stop and relax. Practice being able to smile at your horse!
Also, turn up the “heat”. See how much more your horse can take without getting upset. Do jumping jacks, flap the ground with the Carrot Stick and String vigorously, open and close umbrellas, skip up to your horse, etc. until he is desensitised and can take it all with calm confidence.
The Porcupine Game
When you place your hands on your horse’s nose and ask him to go backwards, its should take no more than four ounces and feel like pushing a rubber duck backwards in the bath tub! If it takes any more than this, your horse is actually pushing against your pressure. You need to be sure you start with phase 1 and then move up the phases quickly until you find phase 4 which is when your horse puts an effort into finding relief from the pressure. Your release then needs to be instant, as soon as the horse tries to make the right response. If you do not return to zero or phase one instantly your horse does this, he will not get lighter. And if you cannot find an effective phase 4, your horse will never really be motivated to find phase 1 again! Really train yourself to start as light as possible and to release as quickly as possible, no matter at what phase the horse responds.
Here’s a great way to “measure” your phases:
Phase 1 Press the hair (Yes! This is how light phase 1 needs to be!)
Phase 2 Press the skin
Phase 3 Press the muscle
Phase 4 Press the bone
You need to learn to be absolutely consistent with this.
In playing the Porcupine Game in other zones (2,3,4) you can use a tool to help you be more effective in phase 4. For example, hold a more solid and pointed object (like a stick, a spur, a screw driver, a horse pick, etc.) in you hand and use it only for phase 4. This means you have to learn how to bring it into play without losing contact between phase 3 and phase 4! And above all, remember that the Porcupine Game requires steady pressure, not ever a jobbing or poking pressure.
Your horse only needs to feel this a few of time before he really believes in phase 4! Just remember that your aim is to have the horse respond at phase 1 so you must always use the phases beginning with phase 1. To just jab the horse with the phase 4 object will not teach him to be soft but rather to be defensive or scared, and even worse, resentful and disrespectful of you. To teach the horse to follow a feel, you first have to offer a great feel.
The Driving Game
Use the most minimal suggestion you can think of: a “Schwiegermutter” (mother-in-law in German) look and the slightest wiggle or pointing of a finger as phase 1. From here, the phase turn into bigger motions and phase 4 is actual contact with the horse. For example, phase 4 could be a slap with the end of the rope, or with the Carrot Stick or your hand, but each time the horse saw it coming.
Rhythm is an important ingredient in the Driving Game. Make sure you learn how to have excellent rhythm in you fingers and arms when you are teaching your horse to move away from implied pressure.
The Yo Yo Game
When the horse goes backwards slowly and then leans against the rope when coming back to you, these are not positive reflexes!
The main cause of a sluggish back up in the Yo Yo Game is wiggling the rope as the first signal. The problem here is that wiggling the rope is actually phase 2, and if the horse can feel it, it is phase 3! Phase 1 involves wiggling only your finger, and the rope should not move. (Refer to Partnership Program notes on “Hinges” to refresh your memory and precision). Practice getting phase 1, wiggling only your finger, perfect.
Now, let’s say your horse is backing, but he’s dragging his feet and its slow and molasses. This is typical of a horse with no opposition reflex, but no positive reflex either. If you tolerate this, your horse will actually become slower and slower and along with this the attitude will become more disrespectful. First, become conscious of how your horse is dragging backwards. Secondly, do something about it! Accelerate through your phases to phase 4 and when the horse snaps to attention and responds quickly relax instantly!
In bringing in your horse back to you, teach him not to lean on the rope by being thorough with your phases
Phase 1 comb the rope towards you with open and flat hands, no drag at all on the rope
Phase 2 keep rhythm going and slightly coil your finger so the horse can feel a little drag
Phase 3 now put in more drag, so it feels insistent but your hands keep moving in long strokes
Phase 4 lock onto the rope, lean back and wait
Instantly open your hands and return to phase 1 when your horse moves his weight towards you, even sooner than when he actually takes a step!
If your horse is still leaning on rope for a long time at phase 4, here’s another technique to add:
Walk backwards aways form your horse, gradually increasing the tension on the rope by increasing your pace and as soon as you feel the horse lugging against the feel, bring the Carrot Stick and String into play. Hold the tension in the rope and rhythmically slap the ground and into zone 3 until the horse jumps forward towards you. Release and start again. Pretty soon, the horse will jump forward as soon as he feels any pressure from the halter and lead rope.
Circling Game
The main problem that presents is being sluggish to leave, side swiping you and a reluctant bring back with incomplete disengagement.
If you find yourself having to swing a few times before the horse leaves, this tells you that you need to find phase 4 and allow the “swinger” to touch the horse in zone 1 or 2 in order to be effective.
Give yourself a little process to follow:
- lead it (give your horse direction at zone 1)
- Lift it (lift the tail of the rope in preparation to swing)
- swing it (swing the rope)
- touch it (touch the horse, soft or snappy as needed)
If you can be consistent with this, your horse will respond as soon as you direct him and you almost won’t have to lift or swing the rope! This is when you know you are being effective. The main problem is that the horse gets used to you just swinging and swinging and never any consequence. This has got to change if you want positive reflexes and to gain response without having to spank your horse.
Other ways to create dullness on the Circling Game is to do too many circles (that’s why we make a maximum of 4 laps on the 12 ft line, but it moves to 8 laps with a 22 ft line) so the horse loses interest; to continually cluck to the horse or motion with the Carrot Stick to keep going; and to keep looking at the horse all the way around! Learn to have a good “Send” so the horse leaves with respect and impulsion. Then leave him alone, smile and cock your leg while passing the rope around your back. and be perfectly quiet. The instant the horse breaks gait, do something about it and then leave him alone again.
When a horse is sluggish to come back to you this means the Bring Back portion of the Circling Game is problematic. Usually the problem is resident in the quality of zone 4 disengagement and with the Yo Yo Game not being responsive enough with the horse leaning back against the halter instead of jumping forward from pressure.
Try this: when bring the horse in, bring the rope to your belly button, clap toward zone 4 (with Carrot Stick and String)… shorten the rope, slap zone 4… shorten the ripe, slap zone4… until it is short enough to make contact with zone 4 and the horse finally disengages. It will take a lot less the next times!
There are three parts of the Circling Game to get right:
The Send (your horse leaves with snap and go, but not fear)
The Allow (your horse stays on the circle, in the gait you ask, until you change that)
The Bring Back (your horse disengages completely and comes to you without resistance)
Get positive reflexes in all of these.
The Sideways Game
A positive reflex is where the horse will go sideways, in both directions, without dragging zone 4 or trying to run forward. This is why for harmony Level 2/3 the real test is to be able to do this without a fence. With impulsion being a major part of Level 2/3, the horse needs to control his tendency to go forward.
General Success Tips
- Always start at phase 1.. if your aim is to teach the horse to respond to phase 1
- Be prepared to use phase 4 (ask…tell…promise) if you expect respect
- Go up your phases faster now that you can read your horse’s disrespectful attitude
- The timing of the release is critical to producing a more sensitive and responsive horse
- Be particular but not critical
- Learn to bring your life up with the phases and to take it down quickly for positive reinforcement
Pitfalls
- Hands that are slow to release
- reluctance to use phase 4
- taking too long before using the next phase, this causes the horse to become dull
- being too critical! This means using your phases too quickly or aggressively, such as with an attitude of annoyance.
- bringing pressure on too quickly, it creates a “brace” in the horse
In summary, the idea is that the horse will choose to avert phase 4 by responding sooner and through your consistency becomes much more perceptive of and responsive to phase 1.
Trust that your horse will respond but be ready to correct, not more one than the other. And also, dont expect your horse to be perfect every time because he will occasionally forget himself. Sometimes they got up on the wrong side of the corral so you have to remind them about phase 4. But always do it with fairness and never a critical attitude, other builds resentment and disrespect sooner. Politely insist on a response and always positively reinforce when you get it.
The 7 Games and Riding
Bear in mind also something else very important, your horse’s responsiveness on the ground impacts his responsiveness when you are riding. Let’s look at how positive reflexes impact this:
Game 1 Friendly
This helps a horse to relax instantly, to become more emotionally stable. Simply by stroking the horse when he gets tight can bring his emotions down quickly. The Friendly Game on your horse’s back can also be played by simply sitting relaxed, doing nothing. You’ll be able to take rain coats on and off (!), swing ropes or carry things without your horse getting upset.
Game 2 Porcupine
The Porcupine Game comes into play every time you lift a rein or use your leg. For a horse to become more responsive to your riding cues, the Porcupine Game needs to be good on the ground, but even moreso, you have to be able to apply it with the same consciousness and feel as when you are on the ground! This means a better and better independent seat!
In both Level 1 and 2 we advise strongly against the use of spurs. Spurs have their place once the horse is confident and responsive and the rider is of a good level and can use them as part of the phases or for greater refinement. To use them too early usually results in them being used too much and the horse becoming dull without them or exhibiting despised behaviour such as ears back and tail swishing. Be patient! Work on the psychology rather than the physical!
Game 3 Driving
Every time you ride with a Carrot Stick you are playing the Driving Game. Similarly whenever you go to phase 3 and 4 in asking a horse to go (slapping your shoulders and them his sides with the tail of your rope), this is the Driving Game.
Game 4 Yo Yo
The Yo Yo Game is the foundation of straight lines, stops and a good back up. The more equally a horse goes backwards and forwards the more suspension he will have. In watching most people ride, you’ll become increasingly aware of how little the back up is used, usually zero! It is extremely important so give it a valuable share of riding time.
Game 5 Circling
Circles, not eggs, circles! While in the basic sense you would think of this game relating only to being able to walk, trot or canter a perfect circle, this game is also the basis of flexion through the body, good turns and spins. Furthermore, there are fast circles and slow ones, big ones and small ones, right ones and left ones, spirals in and spirals out, and even backwards circles! The key to riding a good circle is to focus on its centre and keep equidistant from it. You can even get to where you can do it without touching your reins!
Game 6 Sideways
Like backwards, the better your horse goes sideways the better he will do everything else. Sideways comes in many forms:
These three are related to dressage manoeuvres –
- side pass (where the horse’s body is curved in the direction of the movement. It is an offensive manoeuvre used originally in warfare)
- half pass (a diagonal side pass)
- leg yield (where the horse moves diagonally but there is no bend in the body)
This one is related to cow-working manoeuvres –
- Counter arc (where the horse is curved towards, but moving away from, a point. Its a defensive manoeuvre)
Athletic sideways ability is also critical to leads and lead changes, with flying lead changes being nothing more than a lateral (or sideways) shift in mid stride.
Game 7 Squeeze
While the Squeeze Game appears to have more relevance to things like trailer loading, don’t underestimate its value in helping a horse to overcome claustrophobic tendencies. Being able to ride confidently through narrow places is a relief when faced with narrow trails, gullies, bridges, gates, etc. and is critical to jumping confidence. Racehorses and roping horses that need to go in and out of barriers and boxes can learn to find solace instead of stress in narrow places.
In terms of first saddling and cinching / girthing, getting a horse used to the Squeeze Game in zone 3 can save mishaps caused by sensitive and claustrophobic horses that buck and rear the first time, or every time they are saddled!
The 7 Games are the cornerstone for everything you want to do with a horse:
- befriend him
- become his alpha
- desensitise him
- sensitise him
- teach him
- find out what’s wrong and fix it
- determine physical, mental or emotional roots to a problem
- calm him down
- improve his performance
- you and your horse need to become equally excellent at all seven.
One last thought to dramatically improve your results you have to start winning the 7 Games! Play for a good result, a positive reflex, don’t avoid the problems…fix them. And finally, make sure that your horse is operating from his left brain before you quit.
Summary
If your horse was a car, how would you rate the brakes, the accelerator, the steering…?
What we might think is acceptable is only because we’ve experienced nothing better.
A horseman knows how a horse could and should feel and the risks associated wit it being out of order.
How your horse responds to the touch is a direct result of your feel and timing.
Build pressure slowly, release quickly. its the release that teaches and its called positive reinforcement.
A horse that does not have positive reflexes does not respond until phase 3.
This is often because you miss phase one and avoid phase 4.
It’s time to win the 7 Games!
Friendly Game: make sure rubbing means relax. Turn up the stimulus to teach your horse to tolerate more.
Desensitise him and he’ll learn to stay left brained in the face of adversity.
Porcupine Game: Be conscious of whether your horse is yielding or still pushing back.
Go up your phases more quickly and assertively to convince your horse of the need to respond sooner. Motivate him to find phase 1.
Four Phase: Press the hair, Press the skin, Press the muscle, Press the bone.
Be totally consistent.
A pointed object in your hand for phase 4 can help your horse get the point (!).
Remember to use only steady pressure.
Jabbing will cause a horse to get defensive or scared, resentful and disrespectful.
Offer great feel to your horse.
Driving Game: use a firm look (mother-in law look!) for phase 1 and contact for phase 4.
Rhythm is important for this game.
Yo Yo Game: phase 1 has no effect on the rope! Be careful not to always start at phase 2 or 3 by wiggling the rope.
Slow back up is “no opposition reflex” but it is not a positive reflex either.
Go through your phases more quickly to get your horse to pay attention.
In bringing the horse back, start with open hands combing the rope in toward you. Phase 4 is hold on and wait for the horse to give.
To improve forwards Yo Yo in isolation, walk a backwards, leading your horse and when he lugs on the halter use the Carrot Stick and String on the ground and in zone 3 to motivate him.
Circling Game: improve the Sen, the Allow and the Bring Back.
Lead it, Lift it, Swing it, Touch it.
Your horse will respond when you simply lead and direct him in the send.
Too many laps will create dullness.
A good Send will lead to a good Allow. Learn to leave him alone, relax and not watch him all the way around.
A poor Bring Back is usually related to poor zone 4 disengagement.
Work on the disengagement occurring as soon as you draw zone 1.
Get all three parts of the Circling Game having positive reflexes: The Send, the Allow, the Bring Back.
Sideways Game: be able to go sideways without a fence.
Always start at phase 1.
Be prepared to use phase 4.
Go up your phases faster.
Time your release better.
Be particular but not critical.
Bring up your life or energy with the phases.
Brining on pressure too quickly causes a horse to brace.
Trust that your horse will respond but be ready to correct..not more one than the other.
The better your horse is on the ground, the better he’ll be when you ride him.
Friendly Game helps your horse calm down. It also means a relaxed seat from you.
Porcupine Game quality influences rein and leg responses.
We recommend not to use spurs until the study of Level 3. Using the too early makes a horse dull or reactive – tail swishing, ears back, etc.
Carrot Stick riding is driving while riding.
Yo Yo is the foundation of straight lines, stops and a good back up. It improves suspension.
Circling is the basis of turns and spins. There are numerous versions of circles.
Learn to focus on the centre to make your circles evenly round.
There are many forms of the Sideways Game: side pass, half pass, leg yield…and counter arc.
Good Sideways is critical to leads and lead changes, especially flying lead changes.
The Squeeze Game impacts claustrophobic tendencies and bravery in the horse to go into small and narrow places.
It can also affect acceptance of the cinch.
The purpose for the 7 Games runs the gamut from friendship through leadership sensitisation and desensitisation, teaching, diagnosing and fixing problem.
helping a horse to think his way through things, improve mental, emotional and physical fitness.
Win the 7 Games and make sure your horse is in this left brain before you quit.
